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Retinol. How and when to use it? Expert Justyna Galat.

Retinoids, are substances with an exceptionally broad spectrum of action, which is why they appear so often in more and more new cosmetic products. What is their action? They stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin and inhibit their degradation. Retinoids also counteract the appearance of discolouration, have an antibacterial effect and regulate the sebaceous glands. This makes them extremely versatile active ingredients in complex cosmetic therapies. In the case of retinol, the key is to introduce it gradually into our skincare plan. In the case of this active ingredient- less is more. Initially, retinol works mainly in the upper layer of our epidermis. It contributes to its smoothing out, a gentle levelling of colour and a reduction in the appearance of blackheads.


After prolonged use, it penetrates into the deeper layers, stimulating the skin to synthesise our natural 'scaffolding' of collagen and elastin fibres. The skin then becomes brighter and firmer. Fine wrinkles are also visibly smoothed out. Retinol also normalises the sebaceous glands.

As you can see, therapy with this active ingredient takes time, but it results in a significant improvement in the condition of the skin. This applies not only to the skin on the face, but also the skin of our hands, which we all display and use in our daily activities.

  1. Start with low concentrations and increase gradually

It is no coincidence that the therapies available on the market include so many steps and recommend successively increasing the concentration of retinol applied. Initially, its action is to plump up the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum), but after a longer period of use, it penetrates much deeper and stimulates the skin to produce collagen and elastin fibres. At first, you can apply it once a week. With good tolerance, it is worth increasing the frequency to twice a week.

2. Ensure regularity

This substance gives the best results with regular use. Remember, retinol is not a banquet product. It requires a little more time, but the effects are well worth it. It may take several months before retinol becomes part of your daily skincare regimen, but remember that such a regime will result in a much better tolerance of your skin to this ingredient.

3. Remember sun protection

Retinol is a substance with irritant potential, so it is best to introduce it in your evening care. And don't forget to protect your skin from UV radiation during your treatment. Especially if you potentiate a retinol treatment with vitamin C. As a result of such a treatment, the skin may be sensitised and less resistant to the sun's rays. Make sure you have a solid UV protection and dutifully remember to replicate it during the day. This is very important.

Are there any contraindications to the use of retinol?

Retinol treatment requires not only regularity, but also caution. Keep in mind that this product, if implemented too aggressively, can cause severe skin sensitisation and even aggravate certain problems or dermatoses (e.g. atopic dermatitis). Retinol has been shown to be so potent that it can have a teratogenic effect. If you are trying to have a baby or are pregnant, try to take a break from using this substance. During breastfeeding, it should no longer pose a risk. However, if the manufacturer does not recommend using the product in question during pregnancy and breastfeeding, reach for the alternative ingredient bacuchiol. What happens if the treatment is too aggressive? The skin may become very sensitive, dry and even flaky. Care should then be taken to regenerate and moisturise it intensively. This will help avoid discomfort or aggravation of other dermatological problems.

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